Understanding Diamonds

Everything you need to know about diamonds

While the poet, John Keats, might not have had diamonds in mind when he wrote this line in "Endymion", what could be more deserving of the description than the stone with a brilliance that is forever?

To help you choose the diamond that's going to give you joy your whole lifetime, consider the four criteria diamond professionals use when appraising the stone: Color, clarity, cut and carat weight, better known in the trade as the 4Cs.

Later in this section, you will get more details on the 4Cs than what is outlined immediately below, as well as information on the many things you've always wanted to know about diamonds, but didn't know whom to ask! Refer also to "The Romance of Diamonds" to learn why diamonds have the aura they do. With what you'll glean from these two sections, you'll feel confident and ready to buy your next diamond!

Color
Diamonds that are completely colorless are nearly impossible to find as almost all diamonds have some yellowish or brownish tints. These tints can detract from the brilliance of the stone. The fewer tints a diamond has, therefore, the more precious it is and the higher its price will correspondingly be. Diamonds are color-graded from D to Z, with D-grade stones being the most valuable as they are considered colorless and are extremely unusual.


Clarity
it is extremely rare to find a diamond without any imperfections or inclusions within it, so the clearer a diamond, the higher its value and price. The clarity grading of a diamond depends on the size, number, position, nature and relief of these inclusions. The stones at Enzo Diamonds are among the clearest you are likely to come across.


Cut
How a diamond is cut affects its brilliance. Even a diamond with the highest grades in color and clarity will not give you its best sparkle if its cut is not ideal. Each stone in the range Enzo Diamonds carries has been carefully analysed before it is cut to mark out facets in proportions that will emit the greatest brilliance Typically, a diamond will have 57 or 58 facets, but a single-cut round stone has 17 or 18 facets.


Carat
Carat is the unit weight for measuring a diamond. One carat represents 100 points and is equal to 200mg or 0.2g. The bigger stones are much rarer than the smaller ones, so the price of a large diamond usually increases exponentially with its weight, measured in units known as carats. This means that a diamond weighing one carat will cost a lot more than four smaller ones also adding up to one carat.




What is a Diamond?

Diamonds are a mineral comprising only one single element - carbon. Because of their toughness and hardness, diamonds are the most durable of all gemstones. They are very expensive because they are very rare, as well as difficult and costly to mine.

Turning rough diamonds into finished stones is a painstaking process, requiring a lot of skill, care and attention to detail. The value of a finished stone depends on each diamond's unique combination of the 4Cs, that is, its color, clarity, cut and carat weight.



Diamond Shapes

Diamonds come in a variety of shapes, the most popular of which are round, oval, pear, heart, marquise, princess-cut, emerald-cut, Asscher-cut and radiant-cut. Most diamond engagement rings are set with a round stone.

The 4Cs

a. Color Although almost all colorless diamonds have varying degrees of yellow or brown tints in them, these tints are often very subtle, and in the near colorless stones, they are not visible to the naked eye. Still, even the tiniest difference in tints can translate into dramatic contrasts in price, which is why two diamonds that look identical to the untutored eye can have very different price tags. D-grade diamonds are very, very rare and, therefore, extremely expensive. Z-grade stones are the least expensive as they have the most tints of yellow or brown. Most diamonds you will come across fall somewhere in the continuum between these two extremes. Also highly prized are diamonds graded E and F, which are almost colorless and very rare as well. The stones in the color grades from G to J are classified as near-colorless as the tints are difficult to detect even under 10X magnification. The difference between one color grade and the next, especially in the higher-quality range, can be so miniscule that only diamond professionals with the aid of magnification can tell them apart. And once a diamond is already mounted or set in jewelry, it becomes even more of a challenge to determine its color grade. While colorless diamonds are valued for having as few tints as possible, naturally fancy-colored diamonds do exist and are diamonds that have naturally yellow and brown hues beyond the Z range, or any other color face-up. With fancy colored diamonds, their value increases with the strength, purity and rarity of the color. Highly sought-after fancy colors include red, purple and green. Fancy-colored diamonds also come in yellow and brown hues, but these have yellow and brown colors beyond the Z grade in colorless diamonds.

b. Clarity The clarity of a diamond refers to the extent to which it is free of inclusions within the stone, and blemishes on its surface. As inclusions and blemishes can detract from the beauty of a diamond, clarity is an important consideration in your search for the right diamond. Inclusions could be trace mineral deposits, crystals or any other tiny clarity characteristics totally enclosed in a polished diamond, or extending into it from its surface. Blemishes, on the other hand, are strictly on the surface of a diamond and refer to scratch or polish marks and other clarity characteristics that can often be removed or polished away. Blemishes only affect the top two clarity grades while inclusions affect all grades. An absolutely clear diamond, free of any inclusions or blemishes, is a rarity indeed, and therefore, very valuable. In fact, industry estimates suggest that less than one per cent of all diamonds mined are completely free of inclusions. While many diamonds have a few inclusions, these are often invisible to the unaided eye. Still, even the faintest of these - which might be detected only under magnification - will affect a diamond's value and price. Choose an "eye-clean" diamond if you would like a beautiful diamond that's clear, but doesn't cost a tidy fortune. This means that its inclusions are not visible to the unaided eye. Note too that a skilled cutter can often improve the clarity of your diamond by removing or hiding clarity characteristics - inclusions and/or blemishes. Here are the clarity grades for diamonds and what they mean: FL, IF, VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, SI2, I1, I2, and I3:- FL: The diamond is flawless - with no inclusions or blemishes at all. Extremely rare, very beautiful, highly prized IF: The stone is internally flawless or completely without inclusions. Rare, beautiful, very expensive. VVS1 and VVS2: These diamonds are very, very slightly included and their inclusions are very difficult to detect even under 10X magnification. Excellent quality diamonds. VS1 and VS2: These stones are only very slightly included and their inclusions are not normally visible to the naked eye, and might even be hard to detect under 10X magnification. They cost less than the VVS1 and VVS2 grades, but are still very good quality diamonds. SI1 and SI2: They are slightly included and their inclusions are visible under 10X magnification, and might or might not be detectable with the naked eye. Stones with these clarity grades are good value. I1, I2 and I3: The diamonds are included and the inclusions can be spotted with the unaided eye. We do not carry these grades at Enzo Diamonds Five factors influence the clarity grade of a diamond and they are: Size, number, position, nature or type, and relief. Size: Obviously, the larger the inclusion, the more it affects the diamond's clarity. Number: While the number of inclusions has an impact on its clarity, the size of these inclusions plays an important role. A diamond with numerous, but miniscule, inclusions can still have a high clarity grade

Position: Where an inclusion lies affects its visibility. The area just below a diamond's table is what cutters refer to as the "heart" of the stone and inclusions here are much more conspicuous than they are say, under the bezel facets or near the girdle. Also, an inclusion could be reflected in the pavilion facets and appear as many inclusions! When this happens, the inclusion is called a reflector and reflectors obviously lower the clarity grade of the stone.

Nature or type: This refers to the kind of inclusions in a diamond. For example, feathers, which include cleavages and fractures, usually affect clarity grades more than other types of inclusions.

Relief: This refers to the visibility of an inclusion. Most inclusions are white or colorless, but some can be very dark with hues such as dark red, green, brown or even black. The darker the inclusion, the more visible it is and, therefore, the lower the diamond's clarity grade.

c. Cut

Even the clearest among your completely colorless diamonds will not be at its most brilliant except with the perfect cut. A diamond's shape and facets are the result of cut, which also gives it a pavilion, girdle and table, as the diagrams below illustrate. Additionally, cut determines a diamond's proportions and finish, and both of these features play key roles in its look.

A diamond's proportions influence how well it absorbs light, how light travels within it, and the way it is then reflected. This in turn affects its fire and scintillation.

When cut to look too deep or shallow, a diamond loses light out of its sides and bottom, causing its brilliance to wane. Precise and perfect proportions, on the other hand, help the stone to reflect the maximum amount of light it can produce, and so maximize its brilliance. To achieve the best proportion for any particular diamond, up to 75% of the stone in its rough form may have to be cut away.

If you like dramatic displays of light, select a round or fancy-shape diamond with a brilliant cut. This refers to a cutting style with triangular or kite-shaped facets radiating from the center towards the girdle of a diamond. For a subtler look, opt for a step-cut diamond, which features long, narrow facets in rows parallel to the girdle on both the crown and the pavilion. There are usually three rows although this can vary.

Brilliant cuts usually display more sparkle than step-cuts. For example, you can count on a round brilliant cut, often known as a full cut, to emit excellent brilliance, fire and scintillation. Step-cuts, however, showcase a diamond's clarity and transparency better. Princess cuts, an example of brilliant cuts, boast a dazzling flash of brilliance. Emerald cuts, representative of step-cuts, have a subtler and elegant beauty.

A diamond's finish assesses its polish and symmetry. While polish means the overall condition of the facet surfaces of your finished diamond, symmetry refers to the way a diamond's facets are aligned. As each facet acts like a mirror, symmetry influences a stone's brilliance. When facets are symmetrically aligned, reflected light is focused directly to your eye and its brilliance is emitted evenly. The visual effect or pattern resulting from a round diamond with perfect symmetry is known as Hearts and Arrows.

           

d. Carat

Industry surveys tell us that less than one per cent of women will ever own a diamond weighing one carat or more. Because bigger stones are extremely hard to come by, their value increases steeply and disproportionately with weight. This is why a number of small stones adding up to the same weight as a rare, large one, will cost a lot less together than the single, large stone, all other factors, such as the other 3Cs, being equal.

Even for diamonds under one carat, size counts. Popular sizes such as half a carat (0.5 ct.) or 0.75 ct. have a certain cachet and tend to be pricier than others that do not have the same ring to them.

The size of diamond you choose eventually depends on your taste and budget. While some like the opulence of a single large diamond, others prefer the glimmer of multiple stones set together creatively, or the classic elegance and symmetry of a three-stone ring with two smaller diamonds flanking a larger center stone.

If you have a fixed budget, balance size against the other 3Cs and strike a combination that you're happy with. Should carat weight be the most important factor for you, and yet you wish to stay within your budget, you may wish to compromise a little on the other Cs. A good cut diamond with a color grading above M, and SI1 or SI2 clarity may be a good buy.

Beyond the budget factor, consider also the size of the wearer's finger - if it's a ring you're buying - and the style and personality, of the person for whom the diamond is intended. If the wearer is the outdoor-type, or not too used to wearing rings, pick a smaller stone, or choose a setting that protects the diamond from being nicked and bumped about when she's doing sports. Also, remember that the smaller a finger, the larger a ring will look on it.

Again, if you're buying a diamond as a pendant for a necklace, it's important to consider the size of the wearer and her style. A huge, head-turning stone may not suit a petite person or someone with an under-stated, subtle fashion sense.

Reflect too on the setting for the stone as this will have a visual impact on the diamond's apparent size. Besides, if you've already picked a setting, you have to make sure the diamond you buy fits into this. Certain settings can make a solitary stone look bigger.

Certification

Besides the emotional symbolism that often accompanies the purchase and/or gift of a diamond, there is also a significant amount of financial investment. You would, therefore, like to be confident that what you buy isn't only beautiful, but of a high quality, and excellent value for your money.

Your guarantee for this comes in the shape of a certificate from an established gemologist who has examined it under high magnification to assess its dimensions and weight, and also appraise it based on the other 3Cs - color, clarity and cut.

Such a certificate is also known as a diamond grading report, a diamond dossier or a diamond quality report.

For a more detailed look at what these reports say, click on the following links:

GIA - Diamond Grading Report & Diamond Dossier Report
IGC - International gemmological conference
IGI -  International Gemmological Institute
NGTC - Certificate of Gems and Jewelry

Care and Cleaning

While diamonds are the hardest substance you can find, and are very resistant to damage by heat and scratching, they are destructible nonetheless. A really hard blow below its girdle, for instance, can result in your diamond chipping.

Because of the emotional and financial investment you've put in them, you would want them to live up to the saying, "Diamonds are forever". The good news is that they can be - with proper care, which includes cleaning them periodically.

If you have a whole collection of diamonds, it's advisable not to store them close together as diamonds can chip, cut or scratch other diamonds. Put them individually in soft cloth pouches when you're not wearing them.

Besides scratching each other when they come loose in their settings or even fall out, diamonds can also damage the metal of their setting and other precious stones they may be fashioned with. Choose design settings that protect your diamond, its metal setting and other stones, and be conscious of your diamond when you're wearing it.

Exposure to perspiration and household chemicals such as chlorine and hairspray can dull a diamond because of the build-up on its surface. Do clean your diamond every now and then to maintain its sparkle and refractive capacity.

If you're cleaning your diamond at home, use a solution of one part ammonia and six parts water. Scrubbing it gently with a soft brush such as a soft toothbrush should shake off most dirt and enhance the diamond's brilliance, but take care not to scratch the metal of your setting. Alternatively, you can use a soft, lint-free cloth.

Taking your diamond back to a trusted jeweler once a year to have its settings checked is a good idea and you could entrust the cleaning to them as well. If your diamond has been treated for inclusions or blemishes, the experts know that ultrasonic and steam cleaners can damage them.

Complementing your diamond

The setting you pick for your diamond or diamonds depends very much on your taste, of course. However, you may like to know a little more about the two metals you're most likely to choose from before making a decision.

a. Platinum
This is the strongest and purest of all metals and the most expensive. While a tiny bit of gold or silver is lost each time they are scratched or polished, this doesn't happen to platinum. Prongs of gold and silver holding your diamond and other precious stones in place tend to wear down with usage and may need reinforcement with more metal, but your platinum prongs are there to stay.

Platinum jewelry comprises 90-95% pure platinum, with the rest being made up of iridium or palladium. Because of the metal's resistance to damage and its durability, platinum jewelry can last a lifetime. For a guaranteed quality in your platinum setting, look for the 950 Plat or Plat marks.

While platinum doesn't tarnish, it can develop a patina with wear - a satiny finish that is unique to the metal and which many like. If you prefer the original shine though, take it to a jeweler who can easily polish it for you to restore its original reflective finish.

In the meantime, wipe it with a soft cloth to restore some of its luster. Or soak your platinum in a mild solution of soap and warm water and scrub it gently with a soft-bristled brush. This is usually enough to maintain the metal's luster.

b. Gold
This metal will not tarnish, rust or corrode. But while it is very strong, it is also very malleable. As pure gold is too soft to stand up to the strains of everyday wear, gold jewelry comes with different percentages of the pure metal, measured in karats, and is alloyed with metals such as silver, copper, nickel and zinc for additional strength and durability. The word "karatage" refers to the purity or quantity of the metal in a piece of gold jewelry, with 24k gold being 100% gold.

As 24k gold is too soft for jewelry, fine gold jewelry comes in 18k (75%), and normal gold jewelry in 14k ( 58.3%). 12k (50%) is not acceptable in jewelry and 10k (41.7%) is the legal karat limit in the US for a metal to be considered real gold.

The color of your gold jewelry depends on two things: the type of metal alloys in it and the percentage of these alloys. Since 18k and 14k gold jewelry carry more of the pure metal in them, they have a richer yellow color. Obviously, 18k gold jewelry will have a richer yellow hue, but 14k gold is preferred where strength is important, such as the backs of earrings and the clasps for bracelets.

White gold jewelry can also come in 18k and 14k, but because of the high level of pure gold in them, they have a yellow tinge and are usually plated with rhodium, a shiny white metal that is very hard. Over time and with high usage, the rhodium plating may wear off and the original yellow hue of the metal may show itself. Re-plating is a relatively simple process if you wish to restore your jewelry's whiteness.

Some gold jewelry come in a lovely pink hue known as rose gold. This is due to the higher amount of copper in the metal alloy.

To prolong the luster of your gold and reduce daily abrasions, avoid letting your jewelry come into contact with harsh chemicals such as chlorine and cleaning fluids. Use a solution of warm water and detergent-free soap, plus a soft-bristled brush such as a soft toothbrush to wash gold gently. Place each piece of your gold jewelry in separate soft cloth bags or the boxes they came in originally to shield them from harsh elements.